Case study: a brooch in the shape of an ampersand, made from a single piece of sheet silver.

This was commissioned as an anniversary present for a calligrapher and glass engraver. The commissioner approached me at a live event – Made Brighton – and discussed what they wanted: a brooch in my own style, made from silver with yellow gold plating on the inner surface, in the shape of an ampersand.  I made a sketch, which they agreed, with size stipulated. We agreed a price and a delivery date, three and a half months from then.

Black and white drawing of a treble clef with two wires intersecting through it, each connected to a small triangle.

Back at the studio, I broke down the sketch into its various elements – straights, curves, loops, pin, catch – and estimated roughly what length of material would be needed for each.

Sketch of a forged metal design with measurements and notes. The central area is labeled with "5" and "4", and arrows indicate direction. Handwritten notes mention "Before forging out."

 I drew up a preliminary template based on this and cut out a blank in copper, which I formed to give me a first maquette. This showed me how the proportions needed to be adjusted.

Handwritten sketch and notes for maquette design.

I continued to work in this way through another 3 maquettes, at each stage sending images to the commissioner, until we were both satisfied with the proportions of the piece.

Four coiled copper maquettes (experimental trials) for the ampersand brooch on a light background

At this point I moved into silver and began the piece proper.

When I had finished the forming process I sent images of the brooch from all angles to the commissioner to get approval before sending the piece for hallmarking and plating.

Silver brooch in the form of an ampersand, with the back and the integral pin uppermost, on wooden surface.
Silver brooch in the form of an ampersand seen foreshortened from the bottom end, on a wooden surface.
Silver brooch shaped like an ampersand on a blue cardigan.

 The brooch was delivered on time.

Comment received: THANK YOU the brooch is really beautiful and was really loved by (recipient’s name) ...many many thanks.

A silver brooch in the form of an ampersand, gold plated on the inside surface to emphasise the twists, on a white floral background.